American clothing brand Guess has sparked a debate about ethics in the fashion industry by featuring an AI-generated model in its August Vogue ad. The ad was created by London-based AI-powered marketing agency Seraphine Valora.
The model in the advertisement had blonde hair, a balanced facial proportion, and a fit body, all typical standards of beauty. However, the fact that the phrase “AI-generated image” was inserted in small letters later attracted attention and caused a stir.
This marks the first time an AI model has appeared in a print advertisement for a major fashion magazine. The campaign generated a heated response, garnering over 2.7 million views on TikTok and social media, and sparked concerns about unrealistic appearance standards compared to real models, as well as debate over alternative hiring practices.
Seraphine Valora originally started as a jewelry brand, but shifted its focus to AI model development for cost savings and content aggregation. Co-founders Valentina Gonzalez and Andrea Petrescu emphasized, "AI models are not meant to replace humans, but rather serve as an alternative. We still use real models for photography, and this process itself is a creative process, designed and executed by humans."
However, their official website claims they can "save on expensive photographers, makeup artists, venue rentals, and model hires," raising criticism about whether they actually employ creative talent. Furthermore, most published AI models adhere to traditional beauty standards, which are largely white, and thus fall short of the industry's push for diversity and inclusion.
Sarah Ziff, founder of Model Alliance, expressed concern, saying, "The fashion industry has long struggled with precarious employment and lack of protection, and the introduction of AI could exacerbate these issues." Citing the recently enacted Fashion Workers Act in New York State as an example, she emphasized, "For AI technology to have a positive impact, industry-wide safeguards are necessary."
Guess and Vogue have not made an official statement regarding the ad, but the use of an AI model was discovered voluntarily by consumers. Vogue stated, "The ad was approved by the advertising department, not the editorial department," and "Vogue has never used an AI model in editorial."
Meanwhile, brands like H&M, Mango, and Levi's are also known to be adopting or experimenting with AI models. H&M, in particular, has adopted a structure whereby models own the rights to their AI images by creating "digital twins" of real models and using them in advertising.
